PUBLICATIONS
Research
Pathways to sustainable use of resources: Biocolourants, textiles, and plastics in focus. Laaksonen, P., Patala, S., Salmi A., Torvinen H., Valkokari K., Ylen P. 2025. University of Oulu, URN:NBN:fi:oulu-202505123256
Sufficiency-related Strategies and Activities of Small Finnish Clothing Companies. Härri, A., Levänen, J., Linnanen, L. 2024.Circular Economy and Sustainability, 4, 2931-2955.
“It should be much faster fashion”— textile industry stakeholders’ perceptions of a just circular transition in Tamil Nadu, India. Härri, A., Levänen, J. 2024. Discover Sustainability, 5, 39.
Reflecting on impactful articles at Nature Reviews Earth & Environment, Flexer, V., van Leeuwen, C., Niinimäki, K., Piao, S., Siirila-Woodburn, E. & Wang-Erlandsson, L. (2025) Nature Reviews Earth
and Environment, 6, pp. 12–16.
Managing and negotiating: Approaches to quality work in clothing and textiles companies. Aakko, M. & Niinimäki, K. (2024) Fashion Practice, 0(0); pp.1-29.
From Post-Consumer Cotton Towels to New Cotton Textile Fibers. Schlapp-Hackl, I., Rissanen, M., Ojha, K., Sawada, D., Gorniak, K., Onkinen, E., Niinimäki, K., Sixta, H. (2024) Journal of Applied
Polymer Science, 2024: e55460.
Identifying data gaps in the textile industry and assessing current iniatives to address them, Niinimäki, K., Hernberg, H., Bhatnagar, A. & Goreishi, M. (2024) European Parliament, Directorate-General for
Parliamentary Research Services
Environmental sustainability assessment of a polyester T-shirt – Comparison of circularity strategies. Horn, S., Mölsä, K., Sorvari, J., Tuovila, H., Heikkilä, P. 2023.Science of The Total Environment 884: 163821.
From Simplistic to Systemic Sustainability in the Textile and Fashion Industry. Sahimaa, O. Miller, E. Halme, M. & al. Circular Econony & Sustainability 2023.
How can we build inclusive circular supply chains? Examining the case of agricultural residue usage in India. Härri, A. Levänen, J. Malik, K. Business strategy and development 2023.
(Un)Sustainable transiotions towards fast and ultra-fast fashion. Dzhengiz, T., Haukkala, T., Sahimaa, O. Fashion and Textiles 2023.
Discriminating the viscoelastic properties of cellulose textile fibers for recycling. Mahlamäki et al. Resources, Conservation and Recycling. 2023.
Governing the Transition to Circularity of Textiles – Finnish Companies’ Expectations of Interventions for Change. Salmenperä, H. Circular Econony & Sustainability 2023.
Fashion in turmoil: impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on Finland’s textile and fashion industry. Teresa Haukkala, Kirsi Niinimäki & Linda Lisa Maria Turunen. Sustainability: Science, Practice and Policy 2023.
The only way to fix fast fashion is to end it. Sahimaa, O, Miller, E.M., Halme, M., Niinimäki, K., Tanner, H., Mäkelä, M., Rissanen, M., Härri, A. Hummel, M. Nature Reviews Earth and Environment.
Unpacking the circular economy: A problematizing review. Dzhengiz, T., Miller, E., Ovaska, J.-P., & Patala, S. International Journal of Management Reviews, 2023.
Promoting ecodesign implementation: The role and development areas of national public policy. Susanna Horn, Hanna Salo, Ari Nissinen (2023). Environmental Policy and Governance (online first).
Linear, reuse or recycling? An environmental comparison of different life cycle options for cotton roller towels. Kiia Mölsä, Susanna Horn, Helena Dahlbo, Marja Rissanen (2022). Journal of Cleaner Production 374.
Identification of cellulose textile fibers. Mikko Mäkelä, Marja Rissanen, Herbert Sixta. Analyst 24/2021.
Innovative recycling or extended use? Comparing the global warming potential of different ownership and end-of-life scenarios for textiles Jarkko Levänen, Ville Uusitalo, Anna Härri, Elisa Kareinen, Lassi Linnanen Environmental research letters (2021)
Garment quality and product lifetimes Piippo, R. & Niinimäki, K. PLATE Product Lifetimes and The Environment 2021- Conference Proceedings. The University of Limerick. (2021)
Communicating actionable sustainability information to consumers:_The Shades of Green instrument for fashion
Linda Turunen, Minna Halme Journal of Cleaner Production (2021)
Superbase-based protic ionic liquids for cellulose filament spinning
Sherif Elsayed, Michael Hummel, Daisuke Sawada, Chamseddine Guizani, Marja Rissanen & Herbert Sixta
Cellulose (2021)
Marginalised Small-Scale Farmers as Actors in Just Circular-Economy Transitions – Exploring Opportunities to Circulate Crop Residue as Raw Material in India Anna Härri, Jarkko Levänen, Katariina Koistinen Sustainability (2020)
Intermediation dilemmas in facilitated industrial symbiosis
Samuli Patala, Asta Salmi, Nancy Bocken Journal of Cleaner Production (2020)
Niinimäki. K., Peters, G., Dahlbo, H., Perry p., Rissanen, t. & Gwilt, A. Nature Reviews (2020)
Machine vision estimates the polyester content in recyclable waste textiles Mikko Mäkelä, Herbert Sixta, Marja Rissanen Resources, Conservation and Recycling (2020)
Air gap spinning of a cellulose solution in [DBNH][OAc] ionic liquid with a novel vertically arranged spinning bath to simulate a closed loop operation in the Ioncell process
Chamseddine Guizani, Sauli Larkiala, Kaniz Moriam, Daisuke Sawada, Sherif Elsayed, Sami Rantasalo, Michael Hummel, Herbert Sixta
Journal of Applied Polymer Science (2020)
Recycling of Superbase-Based Ionic Liquid Solvents for the Production of Textile-Grade Regenerated Cellulose Fibers in the Lyocell Process
Sherif Elsayed, Sanna Hellsten, Chamseddine Guizani, Joanna Witos, Marja Rissanen, Antti H. Rantamäki, Pauliina Varis, Susanne K. Wiedmer, Herbert Sixta
ACS Sustainable Chemistry & Engineering (2020)
New insights into the air gap conditioning effects during the dry-jet wet spinning of an ionic liquid-cellulose solution
Chamseddine Guizani, Kaarlo Nieminen, Marja Rissanen, Sauli Larkiala, Michael Hummel, Herbert Sixta
Cellulose (2020)
Repairing fashion cultures; from disposable to repairable
Kirsi Niinimäki and Marium Durrani
Transitioning to Responsible Consumption and Production (2020)
Hyperspectral near infrared image calibration and regression
Mikko Mäkelä, Paul Geladi, Marja Rissanen, Lauri Rautkari, Olli Dahl
Analytica Chimica Acta (2020)
A Mixed-Method Study of Design Practices and Designers’ Roles in Sustainable-Minded Clothing Companies
Essi Karell, Kirsi Niinimäki
Sustainability (2020)
Deconstructing the Clothing Design Process for a Circular Economy
Essi Karell & Kirsi Niinimäki
PLATE Product Lifetimes And The Environment 2019 – Conference Proceedings (2019)
Closing the Loop: Intentional Fashion Design Defined by Recycling Technologies
Kirsi Niinimäki & Essi Karell
Technology-driven Sustainability; Innovation in the Fashion Supply-chain (2019)
Kirsi Niinimäki, Marjaana Tanttu & Eugenia Smirnova,
Aalto ARTS Books (2017)
FORTHCOMING:
Niinimäki, K. (2021) Clothes Sharing in Cities; the case
of fashion leasing. In J. Corcoran and T. Sigler (Eds.), The Modern Guide to
the Urban Sharing Economy. Cheltenham Glos, UK: Edward Elgar publisher.
The role of cross-sector partnerships to break away from the vicious cycles of place-based dynamics in innovation ecosystems
Tulin Dzhehgiz & Samuli Patala
Theses
Collaborating Towards Circularity
Exploring the role of collaboration in systemic change towards a circular economy
of textiles in Finland Saavalainen, V. 2025 Master thesis, Creative Sustainability program, Aalto University. Master of Science in Economics and Business Administration
Just transition to circular textile systems. Härri, A. 2024. Doctoral thesis, LUT University, School of Energy Systems.
Fashion desing for disability: examining past and present practice to enable designers and brands to improve acces to inclusive everyday wear. Scoones, H. (2023) Master thesis, Creative Sustainability programme, Aalto ARTS
Utilization possibilities for end-of-life textiles: in search for missing links Enni Arvez M.ScThesis, LUT University.
Circular economy practices, challenges & opportunities in the Bangladesh ready-madegarment (RMG) industry Mehereen Akhter M.ScThesis, LUT University.
Ella Mahlamäki M.ScThesis, Tampere University.
Outi Laakkonen, M.ScThesis, Lappeenranta-Lahti University of Technology,
Accelerating circular textile sector through consumer targeted sustainability assessment instruments: a company perspective
Communicating clothing quality
Rinna Saramäki (2021), Aalto University, School or Art, Design and Architecture, MA thesis
Regeneration of cellulose fibers from cotton roll towels by means of the Ioncell® process, Krishna Ojha (2021) Aalto University, Master’s Programme in Chemical, Biochemical and Materials Engineering.
Tekstiilijätteen kierrätysmahdollisuuksien vastuullisuustarkastelu Finlaysonilla (Responsibility Evaluation of Recycling Options for Textile Waste at Finlayson) Taika Sipponen (2021), Lappeenranta-Lahti University of Technology, School of Energy Systems, B.Sc Thesis
Pre-treatment of pre- and post-consumer viscose textile waste for the purpose of upcycling to high quality textile fibres via Ioncell ® process, Sara Alexandre (2021), Techico Lisboa, Biological Engineering, MSc Thesis
Business Models Promoting System-Level Environmental Sustainability in the Textile-Domain Otso Sillanaukee (2020), Aalto University, School Of Business, MSc Thesis
Environmental Impacts of Recycling-Based Cellulose Carbamate Fiber
Mitja Hokkanen (2020), Lappeenranta-Lahti University of Technology, School of Energy Technology, MSc Thesis
Services, Second Hand and Superstars – A Typology of Modern Sustainable Business Models in the Textile Domain
Hanna Nortomaa (2020), Aalto University, School Of Business, MSc Thesis
The Value of Finnish Second-Hand Consignment Stores for Second-Hand Sellers
Vivi Kiukkanen (2020), Aalto University, School Of Business, MSc Thesis
Slower Fast Fashion: A Case Study on the Unsustainability Lock-ins in Fast Fashion
Art Maloku, (2020), Aalto University, School Of Business, MSc Thesis
Quality over quantity – connecting quality and lifespan of garment.
Riikka Piippo (2020), Aalto University, School Of Design, MA Thesis
Circular Economy considerations with regards to the inclusion of Man-Made Cellulose Fibers in Europe’s Single-Use Plastic Directive: A multidisciplinary approach
Krisztina Újhelyi (2020), Aalborg University, Environmental Management and Sustainability Science, MSc Thesis
FORTHCOMING:
Emma Saarinen’s, BSc thesis
Other
Unfit, Unfair, Unfashionable | resizing fashion for a fair consumption space. Cosmiene, L.,
Vladimirova, K., Nielsen, K., Niinimäki, K., Iran, S., D´Itria, E.,
Latva-Hakuni, E. & Akenj, L.
Hot or Cool Institute, Berlin, Germany.
And Yet it circulates – Five outlooks on building and a European circular economy
Laura Eiro, Jonne Hirvonen, Samuli Patala, Sirpa Pietikäinen, Saara-Sofia Sirén, edited by Samuel Tammekann and Antti Vesala
Finix Politiikkasuositus 1/2021
BOOKS & BOOK CHAPTERS
Lis J Suarez-Visbal, Martin Calisto Friant, Anna Härri, Veerle Vermeyen, Abe Hendriks, Blanca Corona
Bellostas, Jesus Rosales Carreon. 2024. Weaving a Transformative Circular Textile Policy
Through a Socio-Environmental Justice Lens. In: Sanchez, E.G., et al. (Eds.) Strengthening
European Climate Policy Governance Recommendations from Innovative Interdisciplinary
Collaborations. Springer.
Niinimäki, K. (Ed.) (2024) Recycling and lifetime management in the textile and fashion sector. CRC Press,
Taylor and Francis. ISBN 978-0-367-49083-6 (hbk), ISBN 978-1-003-04441-3 (ebk). DOI:
10.1201/9781003044413
Korhonen, A. & Niinimäki, K. (2024) Sustainability transformation in the fashion system: the role of epistemic
communities. In Henninger , C. Alevizou, P., Ryding, D. & Goworek, H. (Eds.) The Palgrave
Handbook of Sustainability in Fashion. Cham, Switzerland: Springer Nature, pp. 11-25. ebook
ISBN 978-3-031-69682-4, Print ISBN 978-3-031-69681-7.
Korhonen, A. & Niinimäki, K. (2024) Framing Regenerative Fashion. In Schramme, A. & Verboven, N. (Eds.)
Sustainability and the Fashion Industry. Can Fashion Save the World? New York, London:
Routledge, pp. 1-18. DOI: 10.4324/9781032659053-1
Niinimäki, K. (2024) Designing for (extended) product and material lifetimes. In Niinimäki, K. (Ed.) (2024)
Recycling and lifetime management in the textile and fashion sector. CRC Press, Taylor and
Francis, pp. 19-31.
Niinimäki, K. (2024) Textiles and garment lifetimes. In Niinimäki, K. (Ed.) (2024) Recycling and lifetime
management in the textile and fashion sector. CRC Press, Taylor and Francis, pp. 1-16.
Jain, S., Horn, S., Niinimäki, K. (2024) Data in the textile circulation. In Niinimäki, K. (Ed.) (2024) Recycling
and product lifetime management in the textile and fashion sector. CRC Press, Taylor and
Francis, pp. 181-194.
Cura, K. & Mäkelä, M (2024) Sorting and composition analyses of discarded textiles. In Niinimäki, K. (Ed.)
(2024) Recycling and lifetime management in the textile and fashion sector. CRC Press, Taylor
and Francis, pp 144-160.